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Skin health and science. Your Skin Actives e-newsletter.

August 2005 - Issue #5.


We hope you will enjoy this newsletter.  If you do not wish to receive further issues, please reply to this email with "Unsubscribe" in the subject line, and we will take you off our list straight away.  If you would like this newsletter to reach other people, please feel free to forward it to them or send us a note at with their email addresses. Thanks!



It was a busy August for us here, at the beginning of the month we introduced the "Canvas" cream which made answering the question "what cream would you recommend?" a lot easier.

As the month progressed we started trying to fill holes in our product line by adding Eyeliss for puffy eyes, and Lipocare for cellulite treatment. There is no rest for the weary though as we are looking to add five or six new actives next month.

August also brought a few difficulties as we made some mistakes with some orders, coconut endosperm and natural peptides look a lot alike. We are always learning from our mistakes but if you find a mistake in your order please let us know and we will fix it immediately.

Another learning experience was brought on by some problems with our eBay listings. A number of our listing were removed due to the use of trademarks. We are still trying to learn what is allowed and what is not, please write to us if you have any suggestions for improving our listing headers.

August was also the official start of our website improvement campaign. The web site now includes a community forum ( where we will be placing as much information as quickly as possible. We also hope that as many of you as possible register and provide your own tips and experiences. On the forum you will find my official "to-do" list, as well as details of new actives, and an archive of past newsletters.

That's pretty much all from me. I want to thank everyone for being so supportive, we promise that we will continue to do our best to make Skin Actives as friendly and informative a place as possible.


I. Product of the month: Canvas by Skin Actives: to save you time and money looking for a lotion or cream to which you can add our ingredients, we have begun selling our own basic lotion. An unscented “canvas” with which you can create your own skin care masterpiece.

This cream is as good as any top of the line product, and contains sodium hyaluronate (salt of hyaluronic acid) as the base active, for its nutritive and moisturizing properties.

Canvas is perfect for use with our active ingredients. Canvas is available in jars of 4 oz, and price is $6.50 ($6.99 on eBay).

Canvas ingredients and functions

Water (solvent), Simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil (emollient), sorbitol (slip agent and water binding), butylene glycol (slip agent), cetyl alcohol (moisturizer and thickener), glyceryl stearate, PEG-100 stearate, stearyl alcohol, Sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, Prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil, Persea gratissima (avocado) oil, sodium hyaluronate (water binding, nutrient), polysorbate 20 (emulsifier to prevent separation between oils and water), citric acid (to adjust pH), dimethicone (skin conditioner, slip agent) carbomer (thickener, to improve cover), triethanolamine (to adjust pH), diazolidinyl urea, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, propylparaben (antimicrobials).

Canvas is color and fragrance free for sensitive skin.

 II. Your questions, our answers

Q. Do you have something like TNS from SkinMedica?

A. Among the many things I have done in the lab is to culture cells, both of plant cells and animal cells. To culture any type of cells you need a Petri dish, cells to start the culture and a liquid with every thing the cells need, which is called culture medium. You add amino acids, salts, sugars, vitamins, but all this is not enough, so you add a source of "everything" which in the case of animal cells is cow or horse serum (what is left of the blood after the red blood cells are removed). What is TNS? Is the culture medium that has been in contact with isolated foreskin cells for some time (maybe a couple of days). So TNS is NOT the cells but the medium that the cells have used in the Petri dishes. When this medium is removed from the Petri dishes, it contains more or less what it had before (sugars, amino acids, salts, cow or horse serum, etc.) plus molecules that the cultured cells released to the medium. This is a very rich medium, as horse or cow skin are rich in biochemicals, growth factors etc., but this is also a very undefined liquid. It does not contain cells anymore (because the liquid is filtered) but it may still contain viruses and who knows what else. In my opinion the whole thing is yucky (I believe this is the most yucky thing in the whole industry), and you can do better than that having to resort to extreme measures such as using (horse or cow blood) serum on your skin.

With Skin Actives coconut endosperm and EGF you get the growth factors and everything else that is good in TNS without having to worry about all the unknowns (what I call yucky stuff). Also, our Canvas base cream with hyaluronic acid is much better than the base used by SkinMedica (ethoxydiglycol, isoceteth-20, triethanolamine, acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, ethylparaben, isobutylparaben, fragrance).

We welcome your compliments and hope to learn from your criticism.
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