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Reply with quote  #1 

OK -- I'm Lili and I'm a skincare addict. There. I've said it.

 

I admit, I bought the $200 kit of these, managed to get 3 months out of the supposed one month supply.

 

http://www.ddf.com/Pages/MainPage.aspx?Page=Product&ProductId=399

 

I would like to recreate this without the Argireline, and perhaps add some more of the FAB skin actives stuff, like EGF, etc... I thought I'd list the ingredients here , with my basic limited knowledge of what they are, get people's take on how good they are, what is the difference between the different Palmitoyl Oligopeptides, etc....

 

Ingredients:

 

Water --

Colostrum (PPC) -- mother's first milk, supposedly a powerhouse of immunity-building factors, vitamins, etc... is advertised as a revitalising substance for aging skin

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide CS , -- "Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is a synthetic protein, made up of a fragment of collagen and palmitic acid. The palmitic acid is used to make collagen more lipophillic and make it more compatible with the human skin. Developed through intensive research, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide was the result of an effort to create a substance that would act like retinoic acid without the negative characteristics and irritation." ( http://www.skinstore.com/store/product.asp?catID=4400&prodID=4416 . Is one of the active ingredients in Strivectin.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide ES, - another Strivectin ingredient, "a protein that is a fragment of collagen combined with palmitic acid. Research shows that it increases collagen production, hyaluronic acid production and skin thickness. It reduces surface roughness, and depth of wrinkles." http://www.heranswer.com/oht_peptide_3.asp

Acetyl Hexapeptide, -- Argireline -- "reduces muscle contraction, helping to minimize long-term formation of lines and wrinkles, making it a safe alternative to injections." (same as above). 

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, -- another Strivectin ingredient. "Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 is a synthetic protein that is a fragment of the C-terminal portion of collagen I (the most common type of the nineteen forms of collagen) combined with palmitic acid to make it more lipophillic, to improve its stability and to enhance its affinity towards human skin. One could look at Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 as a man-made precursor to collagen I." http://www.emeraldlabs.com/denoveaux.htm

Glycoproteins-Y28, - "enhance skin's natural ability to repair UV and environmental damage." http://www.alibaba.com/catalog/10938144/True.html )

Squalane -- skin friendly oil

Sodium Hyaluronate - the natural humectant found in young skin

Hexylene Glycol - Penetration Enhancer

 

Methyl Pyrrolidone - a solvent, also used as a penetration enhancer, "a transdermal enhancer for the absorption of drugs through the skin" http://www.freepatentsonline.com/5032402.html

Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein CR, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein CS, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein CI, -- supposedly skin-soluble proteins?

Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Glycerin, -- humectants, product feel

Pimpinella anisum (Anise) Fruit Extract -- mildly antiseptic, mild skin irritant. For fragrance/exotic botanical name?

Polysorbate 80 - preservative

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate -- a less acidic, more stable version of vitamin C; has been proven in studies to inhibit melanina production (brightens the skin), but there are questions about its ability to perform other Vitamin C duties, such as encourage collagen production, etc....

Genistein -- a phytoestrogen, "posseses tyrosine kinase inhibitory and/or antioxidant activities, may prevent photoaging."
http://www.smartskincare.com/resabstracts/aging-photo_kang_j-invest-dermatol_20030500.html)

Aminobutyric Acid - Amino acid that has water-binding properties for skin and may be an anti-inflammatory. It supposedly also increases growth hormone when taken orally, but the only support for this is a single obscure study that was conducted more than two decades ago in fewer than 20 subjects, and the results have yet to be replicated by other scientists. http://www.cosmeticscop.com/learn/dictionary.asp?TYPE=SEARCH&ID=A

Ergothioneine -- "Component of animal tissue that has potent antioxidant properties" (same as above) -in Kinerase

Sodium PCA -- "naturally occurring component of human skin that is though to be, at least in part, responsible for its ability to find water. So sodium PCA is thought to be a kind of natural moisturizing factor (NMF)." http://www.thinkerchem.com/sodiumPCA.htm

Yeast Extract, -- a group of fungi that ferment sugars, yeast extract is thought to stimulate epidermal lipids, plump the skin "from the inside out". Betaglucan is a product of yeast extracts, and a good antioxidant.

Inulin Lauryl Carbonate -- not sure, cold be DDF's own name for a chemical substance (they can rearrange the words)

Retinyl Palmitate -- Vitamin A

Xanthan Gum -- thickener

Allantoin - a botanical extract of the comfrey plant and is used for its healing, soothing, and anti-irritating properties. Allantoin helps to heal wounds and skin irritations and stimulate growth of healthy tissue. (Wikipedia)

Bisabolol -- "a terpene and is classed as a alcohol and used as a miscellaneous skin-conditioning agent, as well as a fragrance ingredient. Bisabolol is also known as .alpha-bisabolol. It can be extracted naturally from chamomile or derived synthetically.  Is also known as a powerful penetration enhancer.

Disodium EDTA - preservative

Panthenol - Vitamin B5 - "a powerful antioxidant possessing anti-aging, anti-inflammatory properties; helps replenish skin’s natural hydration and improve the appearance of many skin conditions" http://www.hairproducts4me.com/panthenol-5.htm

Phytonadione - a man-made form of vitamin K, "Phytonadione may help fade the appearance of dark circles by supporting healthy the
damaged capillaries.)
http://www.body-care-shop.com/gip/dark-circles-under-eyes.htm

Prasterone -- DHEA -- an important hormone touted by the Life Extension Foundation as an effected topical anti-aging substance.

Tocopherol - Vitamin E

Pinus pilastris (Pine) Bark Extract - "Pine bark extract consists of proanthocyanidins which have strong antioxidant, antiinflammatory properties" http://www.mskcc.org/mskcc/html/11571.cfm?RecordID=568&tab=HC  Sold commercially as an oral supplement, Pycnogenol®

Ubiquinone - Co-Enzyme Q10 -- thought to help diminish wrinkles

Acetyl Cysteine -- an intermediary (along with glutamic acid and glycine) in the conversion of cysteine into glutathione, the body’s primary cellular antioxidant.

Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract -- antioxidan, rich in polyphenols.

 

OK, all you mad scientists -- whattya think? I do like the the colostrum base...

 

Donna

peggissue
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Reply with quote  #2 
There is also a $1000 "maximum" version of this skincare line.
http://rmx.ddfskincare.com/rmx_mdetails.html
I love the marketing-they send the product to you on dry ice. What were your results with the product?
I asked Hannah about this product a while ago, but she wasn't too keen about the colostrum.
Hannah, feel free to join in......
dukeshb

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peggissue
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Reply with quote  #3 

They have a cute "tag line" -- Upgrade from Promises to Results -- I think that should be the tag line for SAS!!!

 

And I thought that I have tried everything . . . NEVER had results like I have from SAS products.


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Reply with quote  #4 

I liked the product. Will I repurchase (even with my employee discount)? Nope. I did see lots of improvement of my skin -- but I started using my own Skin Actives cream soon after. That's why I'd like to take the best from that line to add to my own potions.

 

I know Hannah wasn't keen on colostrum, but I've read lots of interesting info using it topically, as well as internally. Yes, it is icky to think about using the first fluid that comes from a mother cow's teat, the pre-milk -- colostrum. It's very high in immunity-building factors, etc... Ideally, we should use human colostrum, but even I can't go there...!!!!

 

On the other hand, one of the best-selling products on the market is TNS, made from the medium for regrowing baby foreskin cells, or something like that. Topically applied placenta is also reported to rejuvenate skin.

 

 

hannah

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Reply with quote  #5 
I have nothing against colostrum, so much so that I gave it to my own two babies! (Evil laugh here too?). Newborns receive the antibodies formed by the mother against microbes encountered by her before, the newborns don't have them. I don't think that cow antibodies would be useful to us, because we do not encounter the same microbes.

If you like the colostrum base, save money: buy some powdered milk and add twice as much water, plus preservatives. Freezing will make preservatives unnecessary, but only if you aliquot your serum in small quantities and don't keep freezing and defrosting it (a sure way to denature proteins). To thicken it you can use hyaluronic acid. I will check the ingredient list later and see what other actives we have and whether there is something we "must"  get.

I like the idea of using original media to carry your actives. There is nothing wrong with milk, on the contrary, but why cow colostrum if we are not interested in those antibodies?

hannah

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Reply with quote  #6 
Found some references, nothing very exciting but enough to convince me (see below). If you buy the colostrum powder, look for one that has been freeze dried, so that growth factors and other proteins will be more or less protected. Symbiotics powder colostrum is advertised as freeze dried, it is sild in capsules but also as the powder, which si what you will need to make a serum or to add to Canvas or another base cream. If you have trouble finding the powder let me know and we will get it for you.

Growth factors and antimicrobial factors of bovine colostrum.     Pakkanen, R.; Aalto, J.    International Dairy Journal  (1997),  7(5),  285-297. 

A review with 208 refs.  Colostrum is the first natural food produced by female mammals during the first 24-36h directly after giving birth.  Chem., colostrum is a very complex fluid rich in nutrients, antibodies and growth factors.  In cows the antibodies provide passive immunity to the new born calf, whereas the growth factors esp. stimulate the growth of the gut.  The other antimicrobial components of colostrum include lactoferrin, lysozyme and lactoperoxidase.  Bovine colostrum has also been used as a raw material for immunoglobulin-rich com. products (immune milk prepns.).  These products can be given orally to patients who are suffering infections of the gastrointestinal tract or in order to prevent these infections.  Usually, however, the cows have to be hyperimmunized against microorganisms, if specific antibodies are required.  Several animal studies have shown that the growth factors in bovine colostrum, esp. insulin-like growth factors, stimulate cell growth in the gut.  Bovine colostrum is also known to contain insulin, transforming growth factor b and related growth factors, but their function in colostrum is not fully understood.  Small amts. of these growth factors can also be detected in normal milk.  Growth factors as well as antimicrobial factors of colostrum may be used as potential components in clin. nutrition in the future. 



vanyel5

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peggissue
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Reply with quote  #7 
hey dukeshb, and of course happy new year all....but i wanted to say...love the tagline!  that would be perfect for here!  update from promises to results..how awesome!  let's see if we can update that for SAS!  they deserve some individuality as the service they provide here is not a common one...for individuals to create and experiment using current actives in the skincare world..at reasonable , affordable cost.....any taglines that could refer to that anyone?!


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Reply with quote  #8 

Thanks, Hannah, for looking up colostrum for me -- I was gonna do that today. And thanks for the heads up on the brand -- there's alot available out there online. So, colostrum contains IGF too? I've been hoping to find that. Aren't you going to be selling KGF soon?

 

It makes sense to make up small batches -- the DDF product comes in small 'snaps' -- little pouches that are for one use (although I get 3 uses out of each).

 

The difference beween the $200 Essential DDF kit and the $550 Intense kit one is that the $550 one also comes with little glycolic acid cleanser snaps (woo-woo) to prep the skin. During the day you use the same snap that comes in the Essential kit. Then at night you have a glass vial that has powder and liquid. You turn it around and - voila! - the products mix together. You shake it all up and apply. It's supposed to be a stronger version than the Essential snaps.

 

The Intense (for a mere $1000) comes with a 7-day prep kit, the glycolic cleanser snaps, and the RMX essential snaps. Then there are the glass vials, presumably with more product than the Intense kit, that come shipped on dry ice, with no preservatives. You warm the vial in your hand, mix it up, and apply half to your face, putting the vial in the fridge. The next morning you use the rest of the vial on your face, followed by an Essential snap.

 

BTW, I believe all the RMX products are paraben-free. I think the $550 one uses citric acid, and the $1000 one has no preservatives, hence the refridgeration.

 

It's really impossible to find a full ingredient list of these products -- DDF has been very careful to not allow a complete ingredient list to be posted -- I think I got the original ingredient list off my box of Essential. Anyone up to finding out what's in those vials?

Donna

peggissue
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Reply with quote  #9 
I guess people are drinking the colostrum, too. Here's a company that will ship you frozen colostrum straight from the farm-enough to bathe in. Even chocolate flavor.
http://www.organicpastures.com/ordernow
tengenese

peggissue
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Reply with quote  #10 
Hi, I found this ingredient list for the RMX Maximum Vials:
http://www.sephora.com/browse/product.jhtml?id=P109104&categoryId=RP&shouldPaginate=#ing


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