OK -- I'm Lili and I'm a skincare addict. There. I've said it.
I admit, I bought the $200 kit of these, managed to get 3 months out of the supposed one month supply.
I would like to recreate this without the Argireline, and perhaps add some more of the FAB skin actives stuff, like EGF, etc... I thought I'd list the ingredients here , with my basic limited knowledge of what they are, get people's take on how good they are, what is the difference between the different Palmitoyl Oligopeptides, etc....
Colostrum (PPC) -- mother's first milk, supposedly a powerhouse of immunity-building factors, vitamins, etc... is advertised as a revitalising substance for aging skin
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide CS , -- "Palmitoyl Oligopeptide is a synthetic protein, made up of a fragment of collagen and palmitic acid. The palmitic acid is used to make collagen more lipophillic and make it more compatible with the human skin. Developed through intensive research, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide was the result of an effort to create a substance that would act like retinoic acid without the negative characteristics and irritation." ( http://www.skinstore.com/store/product.asp?catID=4400&prodID=4416 . Is one of the active ingredients in Strivectin.
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide ES, - another Strivectin ingredient, "a protein that is a fragment of collagen combined with palmitic acid. Research shows that it increases collagen production, hyaluronic acid production and skin thickness. It reduces surface roughness, and depth of wrinkles." http://www.heranswer.com/oht_peptide_3.asp
Acetyl Hexapeptide, -- Argireline -- "reduces muscle contraction, helping to minimize long-term formation of lines and wrinkles, making it a safe alternative to injections." (same as above).
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, -- another Strivectin ingredient. "Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 is a synthetic protein that is a fragment of the C-terminal portion of collagen I (the most common type of the nineteen forms of collagen) combined with palmitic acid to make it more lipophillic, to improve its stability and to enhance its affinity towards human skin. One could look at Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 as a man-made precursor to collagen I." http://www.emeraldlabs.com/denoveaux.htm
Glycoproteins-Y28, - "enhance skin's natural ability to repair UV and environmental damage." http://www.alibaba.com/catalog/10938144/True.html )
Squalane -- skin friendly oil
Sodium Hyaluronate - the natural humectant found in young skin
Hexylene Glycol - Penetration Enhancer
Methyl Pyrrolidone - a solvent, also used as a penetration enhancer, "a transdermal enhancer for the absorption of drugs through the skin" http://www.freepatentsonline.com/5032402.html
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein CR, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein CS, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein CI, -- supposedly skin-soluble proteins?
Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Glycerin, -- humectants, product feel
Pimpinella anisum (Anise) Fruit Extract -- mildly antiseptic, mild skin irritant. For fragrance/exotic botanical name?
Polysorbate 80 - preservative
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate -- a less acidic, more stable version of vitamin C; has been proven in studies to inhibit melanina production (brightens the skin), but there are questions about its ability to perform other Vitamin C duties, such as encourage collagen production, etc....
Genistein -- a phytoestrogen, "posseses tyrosine kinase inhibitory and/or antioxidant activities, may prevent photoaging."
Aminobutyric Acid - Amino acid that has water-binding properties for skin and may be an anti-inflammatory. It supposedly also increases growth hormone when taken orally, but the only support for this is a single obscure study that was conducted more than two decades ago in fewer than 20 subjects, and the results have yet to be replicated by other scientists. http://www.cosmeticscop.com/learn/dictionary.asp?TYPE=SEARCH&ID=A
Ergothioneine -- "Component of animal tissue that has potent antioxidant properties" (same as above) -in Kinerase
Sodium PCA -- "naturally occurring component of human skin that is though to be, at least in part, responsible for its ability to find water. So sodium PCA is thought to be a kind of natural moisturizing factor (NMF)." http://www.thinkerchem.com/sodiumPCA.htm
Yeast Extract, -- a group of fungi that ferment sugars, yeast extract is thought to stimulate epidermal lipids, plump the skin "from the inside out". Betaglucan is a product of yeast extracts, and a good antioxidant.
Inulin Lauryl Carbonate -- not sure, cold be DDF's own name for a chemical substance (they can rearrange the words)
Retinyl Palmitate -- Vitamin A
Xanthan Gum -- thickener
Allantoin - a botanical extract of the comfrey plant and is used for its healing, soothing, and anti-irritating properties. Allantoin helps to heal wounds and skin irritations and stimulate growth of healthy tissue. (Wikipedia)
Bisabolol -- "a terpene and is classed as a alcohol and used as a miscellaneous skin-conditioning agent, as well as a fragrance ingredient. Bisabolol is also known as .alpha-bisabolol. It can be extracted naturally from chamomile or derived synthetically. Is also known as a powerful penetration enhancer.
Disodium EDTA - preservative
Panthenol - Vitamin B5 - "a powerful antioxidant possessing anti-aging, anti-inflammatory properties; helps replenish skin’s natural hydration and improve the appearance of many skin conditions" http://www.hairproducts4me.com/panthenol-5.htm
Phytonadione - a man-made form of vitamin K, "Phytonadione may help fade the appearance of dark circles by supporting healthy the
damaged capillaries.) http://www.body-care-shop.com/gip/dark-circles-under-eyes.htm
Prasterone -- DHEA -- an important hormone touted by the Life Extension Foundation as an effected topical anti-aging substance.
Tocopherol - Vitamin E
Pinus pilastris (Pine) Bark Extract - "Pine bark extract consists of proanthocyanidins which have strong antioxidant, antiinflammatory properties" http://www.mskcc.org/mskcc/html/11571.cfm?RecordID=568&tab=HC Sold commercially as an oral supplement, Pycnogenol®
Ubiquinone - Co-Enzyme Q10 -- thought to help diminish wrinkles
Acetyl Cysteine -- an intermediary (along with glutamic acid and glycine) in the conversion of cysteine into glutathione, the body’s primary cellular antioxidant.
Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract -- antioxidan, rich in polyphenols.
OK, all you mad scientists -- whattya think? I do like the the colostrum base...