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Skin health and science. Your Skin Actives e-newsletter.

September 2005 - Issue #6.



We hope you will enjoy this newsletter.  If you do not wish to receive further issues, please reply to this email with "Unsubscribe" in the subject line, and we will take you off our list straight away.  If you would like this newsletter to reach other people, please feel free to forward it to them or send us a note at with their email addresses. Thanks!


September is almost over and we are just about getting the hang of all the new actives we added this month. The combination of Chrysin and Eyeliss has proved very popular and we have had some really good feedback with regards to their ability to improve the health and looks of the skin around the eyes. We have a few new actives ready to go for October, I will try to put them up on the web site in the next couple of weeks.


Thank you all for visiting the new forum, we really appreciate your comments and ideas and we are trying really hard to keep up.


We are looking for some feedback about the Seakelp custom kits, please send us a note to let us know whether you used them and if you enjoyed them. Better yet, come on over to the forum and post your feedback there (


We just received a big box of empty plastic jars, 1oz. and 2 oz. I will place these on sale on the website at $0.80 each. These will really help to keep your different recipes organized. An order has just gone out for some really fancy 1 oz. glass jars that will be great for Christmas gift giving we think jars containing your skin care inventions will make really great, and very affordable presents (these jars will cost $2.50 each, I will have a picture up on the web site as soon as we get the delivery).


Gallons of Canvas...We are getting ready to reorder Canvas from our filler. This is a great opportunity to order gallon jugs. The gallon price is $100 (about 30% discount from the individual jars). Please send us a note if you are interested.




On to Hannah’s Section…



I.                   Product of the month: Seakelp Bioferment with Customizer Kit


Sea kelp can be used as a great nutritive active or as a base for our other products.
As a base it is perfect for users with oily skin types as it moisturizes without supplying extra oil.

Each order now comes with a fragrance & detergent kit that will turn the sea kelp into a world class skin wash or shampoo.

Crème de la Mer made (and is still making) a big splash with their “miracle broth” which is sea kelp bioferment and charged a fortune for it.

Because algae are full of unusual compounds, including fancy polysaccharides that are not present in flowering plants, it was clear that a sea kelp bioferment could be beneficial, but from that to a miracle broth there is quite a distance.  But feedback from our clients seem to indicate that Creme de la Mer was right in making such a big fuss about it. Also, it gives provides an excellent base for water soluble actives for clients that have oily or acne prone skin.

The kit comprises 4 small tubes, containing fragrances (green apple and melon/cucumber) and two low-irritancy detergents, one of them suitable for a skin cleanser and the other for shampoo.

II. Questions and Answers


Q.        How can  I get my Azelaic Acid to dissolve properly?

Azelaic acid is water soluble. Although Canvas contains a good amount of water and the azelaic acid flakes will dissolve eventually, it is faster to add a small amount of water to the azelaic acid, warm the mixture in the microwave for 10 seconds or so, mix until the flakes have dissolved and then add to the base cream. Or, if you have acne or oily skin, you can use the azelaic acid in sea kelp bioferment and then there is no need for the water.


Q.        What is the Difference between Eyeliss and Hylexin?

Hylexin contains two complexes made by the same company that produces Matrixyl. One of these complexes is Eyeliss, for puffy eyes, and we decided to buy the complex as is.  The other complex is Haloxyl, which contains chrysin, two peptides (Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR) and a chelating agent, hydroxysuccinimide. Because all skin creams contain chelating agents we did not feel like hydroxysuccinimide was that important.   The role of Haloxyl is to decrease dark under eye circles, and the main active here is chrysin, which activates an enzyme that degrades pigments derived from hemoglobin. Remember that the skin around the eyes is much thinner than in the rest of the face, and it will get thinner with age. Make sure you use in this area the actives that can help you thicken the skin: Matrixyl or active peptides, ascorbic acid, etc.


A good idea to avoid those dark under eye circles is to sleep the requisite 8 hours, being born with the right genes (dark under eye circles run in families) and use chrysin and Eyeliss. Why Eyeliss? Part of the problem is that puffy eyes project a shadow and make you look more tired than you actually are.


Q.        How do you make your Pumpkin Peel?

It is made by fermentation, very similar to how we make bread, beer or yoghurt: a microbial "seed" is added to the mashed pumpkin and kept in optimum conditions of temperature and aeration until the microorganism had a chance to break down the cells walls of the pumpkin cells, releasing their contents into the "soup". Many of the chemicals released by the pumpkin cells will have been modified by the microbes, so the final result will be as much pumpkin as it is the microorganism.   The soup is filtered so that cell wall fragments and other debris are removed. The bioferment is now a rich soup of vitamins, carbohydrates, nucleic acids and proteins, and some of these proteins are proteases, enzymes capable of breaking down other proteins.

III.       The Essentials (what I would choose if I had to pick 4 or less for each skin problem):


Anti-age: alpha lipoic acid, Matrixyl, GABA, niacinamide.

Skin tightening: sea kelp, DMAE, ascorbic acid.

Oil control: niacinamide, liquorice, ascorbic acid.

Acne: willow bark extract (with salicylic acid), ascorbic acid, tea tree oil, EGCG of green tea, niacinamide, Coleus essential oil.

Anti-inflammatory/anti-allergic: grape seed proanthocyanidins, Boswellia serrata, liquorice.

Cancer prevention/cancer control: Betulinic acid, EGCG of green tea, caffeine, pomegranate oil.

Scars: quercetin, sea kelp bioferment, rosehip oil, niacinamide, Centella asiatica.

Healing: epidermal growth factor, Boswellia serrata, Centella asiatica, propolis

Skin lightening and melasma: EGCG of green tea, kojic acid, azelaic acid, liquorice

Re-vitalizing: sea kelp bioferment, natural active peptides, epidermal growth factor, coconut endosperm.

Skin renewal: willow bark extract (with salicylic acid), ascorbic acid, pumpkin bioferment.



You can buy our products on Ebay or directly from us at  (at a slightly lower price). If you prefer to buy through Ebay, please remember to leave feedback, to help us grow and be able to stock more great Skin Actives. Email us at if you have any questions or suggestions. If we do not know the answer we will do the research and find it for you.

We welcome your compliments and hope to learn from your criticism.
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